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Morrice S. Baker: French Bubbles, Taking a Deeper Look Into Crémant and Champagnes

Article by Morrice S. Baker

Eva Semel by Eva Semel
December 10, 2023
in Lifestyle
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Morrice S. Baker: French Bubbles, Taking a Deeper Look Into Crémant and Champagnes
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Champagne and Crémant are two sparkling wine categories with some similarities but distinct differences. Both are produced in France using the traditional method, where secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle to create the signature bubbles. However, there are variations in grapes used, production methods, and regional regulations that set them apart. This article will explore the key factors that differentiate Champagne and Crémant.

Grapes and Regions

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Champagnes are made exclusively from grapes grown in the Champagne region of France. The primary grapes used are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. The cool climate and chalk-rich soils of the Champagne region impart a crisp acidity, light body, and unique complexity to the wines. Tight regulations limit yields to 12,000kg/hectare and dictate vine training methods like pruning and planting density to ensure quality. Champagne uses a strict zoning system that rates vineyards on exposure, slope, soil, etc. Only juices from the top-rated vineyards can be used for vintage Champagnes. Around 15,700 producers rely on 34,000 hectares of vineyards designated for Champagne production. This accounts for over 99% of all sparkling wine production in the region.

Crémants are made in various French regions like Burgundy, Loire Valley, Bordeaux, Limoux, Alsace, etc. Each region utilizes local grape varieties: Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc in the Loire; Pinot Noir, Chardonnay in Burgundy; Ugni Blanc, Colombard in Bordeaux. There are less stringent regulations than in Champagne regarding yields (50-65 hl/ha depending on region), vine age (5-8 years vs three years in Champagne), and pruning methods – allowing double guyot for higher yields. Diverse terroirs make each Crémant style unique. For example, Burgundian Crémant has finesse from limestone soils, while Bordeaux Crémant is fuller-bodied from clay soils. Around 390 producers use 18,000 hectares of vineyards scattered across France.

Winemaking Process

Champagne Grapes are hand-harvested in whole bunches, often at under-ripeness between 9.5-10% potential alcohol to preserve acidity. Gentle whole-bunch pressing is mandated to minimize skin contact and yield the highest quality juice only (cuvée) from each pressing. The Champagne houses skillfully blend wines from different villages, grapes, and vintages to create consistent house-style non-vintage blends or distinct premium Vintage cuvées that epitomize the best grapes of a single year. After blending, wines undergo second fermentation and aging on lees in the bottle for a minimum of 15 months for Non-Vintage and three years for Vintage Champagnes. The lees contact enriches the wine while the long aging integrates flavors and develops finer bubbles. The manual remuage process of slowly twisting each bottle to consolidate yeast deposits precedes dégorgement, where the deposits are removed from the neck under pressure, followed by corking with the final dosage to finish.

Crémant production methods demonstrate more significant variation than the uniform approach of Champagne houses, with single vintage and varietal styles common among small producers. However, some also aim to recreate a consistent house style through blending. Minimum aging on lees of 9-12 months before disgorgement allows streamlined costs compared to Champagne’s minimum of three years for non-vintage. Mechanization permits higher vineyard yields than Champagne, and automated disgorgement/crowning further reduces expenses, yet quality remains high per certification sensory analysis requirements. Overall, Crémant is oriented towards affordability and accessibility rather than exclusivity, enabled by flexible regulations allowing producers to balance efficient, large-scale production with small-scale premium offerings under the same appellation.

Style and Flavor Profiles

Champagne is characterized by its light body with firm, bright acidity and notes of citrus, bread, and minerality from the region’s cool climate and limestone soils. The delicate and elegantly persistent fine bubbles result from secondary fermentation in the bottle. Blending typically mutes varietal aromas to allow regional terroir to shine through, with more Pinot Noir adding red berries and power and more Chardonnay contributing finesse and aging ability. Prestige cuvées utilize high proportions of top-rated grapes to achieve extraordinary depth, complexity, and cellaring potential, with prices over $100 per bottle from producers like Krug, Dom Pérignon, and Cristal.

Crémant often expresses more overt varietal characteristics like Burgundy’s cherry and spice from Pinot Noir or Loire’s bright citrus and green apple from Chenin Blanc. Usually medium-bodied with less aging on the lees, Crémant offers a frothy mousse texture with integrated bright fruit flavors and vibrant acidity. Bubbles are less refined, given quicker production methods, but smoothness is uncompromised. Regional styles stand out — Loire Crémants are racy and mineral, Burgundy delicate and finessed, Bordeaux fuller and warmer. Overall, Crémant provides a more fruit-forward, vigorously bubbly experience that spotlights local grapes and wine styles at a lower price than Champagne.
Pricing Differences

Champagne

The time-intensive and costly production process of Champagne, including hand harvesting, whole-bunch pressing to extract only the highest quality juice, extensive aging and manual turning of bottles, removal of lees, and adjustment of dosage, coupled with the global prestige of the Champagne name, enables these luxury French sparkling wines to demand some of the highest prices in the wine world. While basic Non-Vintage Champagnes from large Houses retail for $35-60 on average, more premium vintage offerings and special cuvées from smaller producers can easily exceed $100-200+ per bottle. The meticulous grape selection and longer aging contribute to exceptionally high quality and higher prices.

Crémant sparkling wines offer impressively high quality at a low price compared to Champagne, thanks to higher vineyard yields, more efficient production techniques, and shorter aging requirements before release. On average, entry-level essential non-vintage crémants retail at around an affordable $12-22 per bottle. More premium single vintage releases with small production volumes or from recognized quality estates can sell for $22-40+. Specific Crémant appellations like Crémant de Limoux can demand higher prices closer to entry-level Champagne due to strict production requirements like 100% hand harvesting and longer aging time. However, they still offer an excellent value alternative.

Conclusion

In essence, Champagne remains the quintessential luxury French sparkling wine. It is revered for inimitable elegance and afforded almost mythical prestige due to its global reputation and meticulous production traditions perfected over centuries. Meanwhile, Crémant offers impressive diversity across French regions – each area producing bubbly in styles that encapsulate local terroir at as little as half to a third of the cost of basic Champagne on average. Discerning consumers can decide between selecting the champagne tasting experience’ par excellence’ or exploring more varieties and value-conscious options among quality Crémants to suit personal preferences and budget considerations when choosing fine French sparkling wines. Both categories merit appreciation for upholding excellence in traditional methods of sparkling winemaking.

Article by Morrice S. Baker

Eva Semel

Eva Semel

Assistant Managing Editor

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